Adventures in twill continued! Wherein we discover that the back of draft pattern “Separated Twill Crosses” is really the front! This is an astounding fabric that feels very different on each side, and looks on one side nothing like you would expect from the chart.
As I wove this one, I made several changes to the chart that will be reflected in the published version.
Here I have warped the loom with white columns.
Running out of traditional loops! Trying to choose colors for the weft. This pattern can be neatly divided across its width, so I opted for 12 purple and 6 green.
Testing my purple and green combinations, do I want green stripes?
…a green center?
… or green edges?
Green stripes are the most appealing, so I lay out my row loops in order, 3 purple, 3 green, 6 purple, 3 green, 3 purple. For pattern consistency, I have added a 19th column to my loom. You can see that I folded the 27-peg chart at 19 columns, 18 rows, where the pattern of crosses comes out complete. We have 6 rows of crosses in the pattern, alternating 5 or 4 crosses across each row. The vertical repeat is 3 rows; the horizontal repeat is 4 columns (minus one at the end).
Row 9. You can see how I am handling the 19th column, by hooking it on the pegs for 18, and simply weaving into it as I get there. The work spreads out as I go.
Row 10. Notice how the 3/1 twills center over each other. This pattern is very easy to weave because of the consistency.
Rows 8 and 11 are tabby (over / under across the row).
Rows 7 and 12.
Now we begin the green sections, which I have highlighted in green to remind me where to change colors (my loops are also in order; this is a cross-check).
Rows 6 and 13.
Rows 5 and 14 are tabby, again.
Rows 4 and 15 finish our green stripes.
Rows 3 and 16.
Rows 2 and 17, tabby.
And we finish the chart as drafted with rows 1 and 18, both in 3/1 twill.
Will I prefer the edge if I switch that last row to tabby? There is only one way to find out; experiment. So I switch the bottom row (18) to tabby, leaving the first row as twills.
As you might expect, the two edges behave very differently, on the front…
And on the back….
The “back” side has a distinct diagonal raised pattern in the white floats.
The “front” side has a longitudinal raised pattern.
Updated use the tabby edge on both ends.
Almost 5.5″ along the short side.
6″ at the long tabby edges, a bit narrower in the center.
A corrected pattern with the new tabby edge.